{"id":8559,"date":"2026-04-11T12:53:11","date_gmt":"2026-04-11T09:53:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/?p=8559"},"modified":"2026-04-11T16:09:25","modified_gmt":"2026-04-11T13:09:25","slug":"2-gun-li-nehri-yangshuo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/2026\/04\/11\/2-gun-li-nehri-yangshuo\/","title":{"rendered":"2. G\u00fcn: Li Nehri & Yangshuo"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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2. g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczden ni hao<\/em>! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yangshuo kasabas\u0131 -anlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z kadar\u0131yla \u00c7in’in en turistik beldesi zira ne zaman bir \u00fclkenin ba\u015fkan\u0131 ziyarete gelse, oraya g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyorlarm\u0131\u015f gezdirmeye. Ama olmas\u0131n m\u0131 \u015fimdi: s\u0131ra s\u0131ra yemye\u015fil da\u011flar\u0131, nehirleri, g\u00f6lleri ile tam bir do\u011fa harikas\u0131. Sakin, sessiz, do\u011fa ile i\u00e7 i\u00e7e ama vah\u015fi do\u011fa de\u011fil, y\u00fcr\u00fcme mesafesinde her daim medeniyet sakl\u0131 duruyor. Guilin’den arabayla 1.5 saat s\u00fcr\u00fcyormu\u015f ama tekne ile 4 saatlik nehir turu f\u0131rsat\u0131 olunca tabii ki biz de \u00f6yle yapt\u0131k!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Li Nehri Rotam\u0131z (Yol \u00fcst\u00fcnde bir dolu g\u00f6r\u00fclecek manzara\/nokta var!)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Sabah nispeten erken kalk\u0131p iskeleye geldik. \u0130skele dedi\u011fim havaalan\u0131ndan biraz k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck, y\u00fczlerce insan\u0131n 15 dakikada bir kalkan 10-15 tekneye dolu\u015ftu\u011fu, s\u00fcrekli bir devinimin oldu\u011fu limand\u0131. Teknemize do\u011fru giderken, bilet kontrol\u00fcnde arkam\u0131zda \u0130spanyolca konu\u015fan bir \u00c7inli g\u00f6r\u00fcnce (turist rehberiydi) dayanamay\u0131p sordum (insan\u0131n konu\u015fulan \u015feyleri anlamas\u0131 bile ne b\u00fcy\u00fck bir nimetmi\u015f me\u011ferse! 8), Barselona’dan gelen bir grupmu\u015f. \u015eans\u0131m\u0131za teknede de kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za Kolombiyal\u0131 bir \u00e7ift oturdu da, Espanyolca’m\u0131z\u0131n tozunu ald\u0131k. 8)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tekneler forza!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nehrin sa\u011f\u0131nda-solunda bize e\u015flik eden s\u0131ra s\u0131ra dumanl\u0131 da\u011flar, akl\u0131m\u0131za s\u0131k s\u0131k Kerem ile Asl\u0131’n\u0131n Kerem’ini getirdi zira Steven iki ad\u0131mda bir “\u015fu da\u011f ‘Oturmu\u015f Koca Bekleyen K\u0131z’ da\u011f\u0131, \u015fu ise ‘9 at’ — g\u00f6rebiliyor musunuz?” diyerek bize \u00c7inlilerin engin hayalg\u00fc\u00e7lerinin \u00fcr\u00fcnlerini tan\u0131tt\u0131 (“Bak Lala, \u015fu da\u011f\u0131 bilir misin?” “Nereden bileyim ben, da\u011f naz\u0131r\u0131 m\u0131y\u0131m?!..”). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Manzara harikulade idi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Haziran’da Chenxi bizi gezi olarak Hangzhou’ya, 1 \u00c7in Yuan’\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcndeki Zheijang – Bat\u0131 G\u00f6l\u00fc’ne g\u00f6t\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. Buras\u0131 da 20 Yuan’\u0131 s\u00fcslemekte (tam oradayken parayla \u00e7ekilmi\u015f resmimiz de var ama ne gerek var \u015fimdi \ud83d\ude09 <\/p>\n\n\n

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20 Yuan – Biz geldi\u011fimizde 120 TL idi, bu aralar 140’tan seyrediyor…<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Bunlar\u0131 yazarken Joanna Wang<\/a> dinliyorum, tavsiye ederim: \u00c7ince, Japonca, \u0130ngilizce s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor, sesi bu\u011fulu, a\u011flad\u0131 a\u011flayacak, buruk gibi. Sakince s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor, sizi yormuyor, bilakis dinleniyorsunuz sesiyle… Ben muhte\u015fem Wild World cover’\u0131<\/a> vesilesiyle tan\u0131m\u0131\u015ft\u0131m kendisini, di\u011fer \u015fark\u0131lar\u0131 da \u00e7ok g\u00fczel s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nehre d\u00f6nelim. Nehir boyunca k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck yerle\u015fimler de g\u00f6rd\u00fck — bir k\u0131sm\u0131 turistik, kay\u0131k gezintisi, pansiyonlar, bir k\u0131sm\u0131 bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 k\u00f6yleri…<\/p>\n\n\n

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Mad Max esintileri olabilirdi ama olmad\u0131 (\u00e7ok \u015f\u00fck\u00fcr!)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Sayfiye \u00c2l\u00e2<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n
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(Belki de iyi bir insan\u0131md\u0131r(?)…)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nehir yolculu\u011fumuzun sonunda Yangshuo’ya vard\u0131k. Mah\u015feri bir kalabal\u0131k. Benim akl\u0131ma \u00e7ocuklu\u011fumun Erdek’i veya i\u015fte Bart\u0131n – \u0130nkumu veya \u00d6ren geldi; g\u00fczel, 80’ler tad\u0131, l\u00fcks yer yok, halk i\u00e7in halk (ama \u00e7ok kalabal\u0131kt\u0131 hakikaten). Otele bir merhaba dedik (bavullar\u0131m\u0131z bizden \u00f6nce arabayla varm\u0131\u015ft\u0131 — “you treat me like a princess \/ I’m not used to…<\/em>” 8) Biraz \u00fcst\u00fcm\u00fcze ba\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7eki-d\u00fczen verip atlad\u0131k arabaya, yak\u0131ndaki xxx y\u00f6resine (unuttum ad\u0131n\u0131, bakmaya da gerek g\u00f6rmedim \u015fimdi) gittik. Bu g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcler de oradan:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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G\u00f6l, nehir, da\u011f… \u0130nsan\u0131n i\u00e7i \u00f6yle bir a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor ki (yolu da bu arada M\u00fchye K\u00f6y\u00fc yolundan gidilen Eymir yolunu and\u0131rd\u0131 bana, gereksiz ama evet)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Biz buralar\u0131 gezerken, Steven, y\u00f6reye \u00f6zg\u00fc bir performans oldu\u011fundan bahsetti “Pekin Olimpiyatlar\u0131’n\u0131n a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u015f t\u00f6renini d\u00fczenleyen koreograf\u0131n” dedi, “beni pek a\u00e7m\u0131yor g\u00f6steri ama belki siz ilgilenirsiniz… bilet alay\u0131m m\u0131, ister misiniz?” Biz de, Amerikal\u0131lar\u0131n deyi\u015fiyle yapacak daha iyi bir i\u015fimiz olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan, “tamamd\u0131r” dedik. Gayet casual bir \u015fekilde ger\u00e7ekle\u015fti b\u00fct\u00fcn bu konu\u015fmalar. Ayr\u0131ca “a\u00e7\u0131k havada oluyor, o y\u00fczden siz her ihtimale kar\u015f\u0131 \u00fcst\u00fcn\u00fcze bir \u015feyler getirin” dedi, “ah, dandik, amat\u00f6r bir \u015feye gidiyoruz” diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcm (bilet paras\u0131 nispeten y\u00fcksekti bu arada).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00d6\u011flen \/ \u00f6\u011fleden sonra kasabay\u0131 gezdik, sonra ak\u015fam oldu, hava karard\u0131, bindik arabaya, zaten yak\u0131nm\u0131\u015f. Geni\u015f\u00e7e bir otopark, kalabal\u0131k var ama s\u0131k\u0131\u015fma yok, rahat, yerel etnik gruplar standlarda duruyor, kendi m\u00fcziklerini \u00e7al\u0131yor, resim \u00e7ektiriyorlar…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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(bir \u00f6nceki blog’da<\/a><\/em> payla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m o iki resim de bu etkinlikten idi)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sonra i\u00e7eri ge\u00e7tik. G\u00f6l\u00fcn (& onu besleyen nehrin) kenar\u0131na bir platformla sahne kurmu\u015flar, \u015f\u00f6yle bir \u015fey:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Yaaaani… eh.<\/em> Gerideki o ekranda da film oynatacaklar herhalde… peki bakal\u0131m, bekleyelim g\u00f6relim.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sonra “performans” ba\u015flad\u0131. \u015eimdi o ana kadar “bizim kom\u015funun \u00fcniversiteyi \u00fc\u00e7 kerede kazanan o\u011flu” modunda an\u0131lan “koreograf” me\u011ferse the<\/em><\/strong> Zhang Yimou’nun ta kendisi imi\u015f (olimpiyat seremonisi + b\u00fct\u00fcn o filmler! (ve Gong Li!.. Ah Gong Li!…)). G\u00f6steri ba\u015flay\u0131nca arka plandaki o da\u011flar ayd\u0131nland\u0131! \u015eaka etmiyorum – SAHNE B\u00dcT\u00dcN DA\u011eLAR VE G\u00d6L VE NEH\u0130R, G\u00d6Z\u00dcN\u00dcZ\u00dcN ALAB\u0130LD\u0130\u011e\u0130NCE UZANAN B\u00dcT\u00dcN MANZARA \u0130M\u0130\u015e ME\u011eER DEKOR!!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bu. Ger\u00e7ek da\u011flar, ger\u00e7ek g\u00f6l, ger\u00e7ek g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fc! <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Zhang Yimou, renklere olan d\u00fc\u015fk\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcyle \u00f6n plana \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor: konuyla ilgili olarak \u00f6rne\u011fin \u015f\u00f6yle bir saptama okumu\u015ftum ge\u00e7en g\u00fcn:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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From Hero with a five-color background to Curse of the Golden Flower, which is dominated by yellow, all his recent films have displayed a relentless pursuit of \u2018color art\u2019 at all costs.<\/p>\n“Intelligent Chinese Films Hit the Mainstream<\/a>” chinatoday.com (2013)<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Bu performans da tam bir sert renk g\u00f6sterisi idi: k\u0131pk\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131dan masmaviye, sar\u0131, \u0131\u015f\u0131klar, \u0131\u015f\u0131klar… 300den fazla oyuncu (? performans\u00e7\u0131?) \u00f6bek \u00f6bek m\u00fczikle beraber evrildi, b\u00fcy\u00fcledi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bunlar tabii benim makineyle \u00e7ekilmi\u015f halleri. Performans, performans deyip duruyorum ama g\u00f6sterinin ad\u0131: Sanjie Liu’dan \u0130zlenimler<\/a> (\u0130ngilizce’ye “Impressions of Sanjie Liu” diye \u00e7evirmi\u015fler). Sanjie Liu da, bizdeki K\u00f6ro\u011flu misali, art\u0131k ger\u00e7eklikten \u00e7ok efsanevi bir kimli\u011fe b\u00fcr\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f bir \u015fahsiyet (imi\u015f). \u00c7ok etkilenmi\u015f olarak \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. Ama \u015f\u00f6yle bir \u015fey var: g\u00f6steri (ve \u00f6rne\u011fin Hero \/House of the Flying Daggers \/ Curse of the Golden Flower gibi b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00fct\u00e7eli, \u015f\u00e2\u015f\u00e2l\u0131 tarihi filmleri) -sanki- Bat\u0131l\u0131lar i\u00e7in haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f gibi. T\u00fcrkiye’de bir \u00c7in lokantas\u0131nda yedi\u011finiz \u00c7in yeme\u011fi gibi -san\u0131r\u0131m \/ ucundan ahk\u00e2ma bat\u0131yorum, fark\u0131nday\u0131m. Steven da getirmi\u015f oldu\u011fu \u00c7inlilerin genel olarak s\u0131k\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 anlatt\u0131 mesela, sonra yine \u015fu renk tak\u0131nt\u0131s\u0131 mevzuunu al\u0131nt\u0131lad\u0131\u011f\u0131m yerde de benzer \u015feyler dile getiriliyor. Olsun, ben be\u011fendim (zaten buralarda -%70 \u015faka yollu olsa da- diyoruz “Quick China’n\u0131n yemeklerini \u00e7ok \u00f6zledik, T\u00fcrkiye’ye d\u00f6n\u00fcnce ilk i\u015f oraya gideriz..” 8). Biz be\u011fendik sonu\u00e7ta g\u00f6steriyi, be\u011fenmek az tabii, bay\u0131ld\u0131k, vurulduk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u015e\u00f6yle de bir \u015fey: Bir arkada\u015f\u0131n\u0131z bir g\u00fcn size bir filmden bahsediyor, sonras\u0131nda filmin \u00e7ekildi\u011fi yere gitme f\u0131rsat\u0131n\u0131z oluyor, oradayken rehberiniz size laf aras\u0131nda \u015f\u00f6yle \u015f\u00f6yle bir g\u00f6steriden bahsediyor, sizin de ak\u015fam\u0131n\u0131z bo\u015f, tamam, gidelim diyorsunuz ve b\u00f6yle muazzam bir \u015fey ile kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131yorsunuz, e\u015fi benzeri yok!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mutlu, mesut bir \u015fekilde otele d\u00f6nd\u00fck, yatt\u0131k uyuduk. Ertesi g\u00fcn: ver elini tarihi Huangyao kasabas\u0131!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Gezilerimiz s\u0131ras\u0131nda kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yerel k\u0131yafetinde bir Honolulu erke\u011fi.
(Kalbime ak ruhumu yak \/ \u015eu g\u00f6nl\u00fcm senin olsun)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

2. g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczden ni hao! Yangshuo kasabas\u0131 -anlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z kadar\u0131yla \u00c7in’in en turistik beldesi zira ne zaman bir \u00fclkenin ba\u015fkan\u0131 ziyarete gelse, oraya g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyorlarm\u0131\u015f gezdirmeye. Ama olmas\u0131n m\u0131 \u015fimdi: s\u0131ra s\u0131ra yemye\u015fil da\u011flar\u0131, nehirleri, g\u00f6lleri ile tam bir do\u011fa harikas\u0131. Sakin, sessiz, do\u011fa ile i\u00e7 i\u00e7e ama vah\u015fi do\u011fa de\u011fil, y\u00fcr\u00fcme mesafesinde her daim medeniyet sakl\u0131 duruyor. … Okumaya devam et “2. G\u00fcn: Li Nehri & Yangshuo”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[175],"tags":[193,192],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8559"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8559"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8559\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8597,"href":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8559\/revisions\/8597"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8559"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8559"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.emresururi.com\/blogs\/sururi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8559"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}